Saturday, July 14, 2012

14 July - Montalegre - Chaves

After having survived the annual village event of Bewitched Night in Montalegre, I eventually crawled under the covers at 3am, having so reasonably declined the offer of an all-night session involving the vast consumption of on-tap quantities of Witches Potion provided by the village. The ingredients, so I am told (and these did vary as the evening unfolded) include vineyard fruit and liquor, cane syrup, coffee, and wild herbs). The all mixed together and warmed in huge cauldrons. Similarities could be a cross between Sambuca and a Christmas Pudding. Set alight before serving!.
My conclusion would be to sandwich your head between your hands very hard and you have an insight into the after effects!

Stage performance
Firworks on the castle walls of Montalegre
Chariot of fire
At midnight, a phenomenally loud and dramatic stage performance (as only the latins do best) reproducing the macabre and goulash witchcraft occurring on the moors of Montalegre very Friday 13th. Throughout the village, the tiny cobbled streets are lit by candles and paraffin torches showing the way, and as the stage becomes an orange and amber glow of activity perceived through swirls of dry ice, the actors dressed in their medieval costumes perform in front of a crowd of 20,000 people over a constant low hum of beating of drums. (Much moaning and wailing too!). Metal cages, wrought iron staircases signifying the gateway to heaven and a rope gymnast all add to the show, swung some 30metres across the crowd be means of a crane. And as if this was not enough, the very own Priest himself who started this tradition 20 years ago after having discovered on the Montalegre plateau, a special wild herb with medicinal purposes, was the star performer.
So, with all this racing through the remnants of any brain cells I had left, I swiftly departed and as I swung my car through the walled gates of my internet hotel, smiled sweetly to myself at the thought of those not wise enough to have called it "quits" early on.

< My glider was laid out in the lobby of the hotel and all the guests were walking on it leaving dusty footprints. A while later, pulling my other glider out of its bag in the same lobby, only to find it had been replaced by a mini yellow kite and the risers were even detached from my harness. I couldn't compete with this! >
Two "pre-comp" dreams later, I peeled back the curtains and opened the shutters to find myself gazing upon a large gravel driveway lined with lush green grass and plantain trees. I am in the Forte Sao Francisco. OMG!!

The most extraordinarily beautiful and intriguing hotel I have ever stayed in. Within the fortress walls (hence last night the enormous gates), the castle has been transformed into a hotel and conference centre. Subtle replacements made to retain all the caché of this historical monument using floor to ceiling glass panels to allow natural light to penetrate.



Birds at the aviary

Inner courtyard


castle gardens
Hotel and castle entrance 

Oak plints and decorative doorways, huge stone paving floors, and the occasional glass flooring revealing parts of the dungeons below. Wide corridors weaving to reveal fig trees and small arched inner courtyards, wells, and springs, etc, etc.. I didnt care to mention the lush swimming pool surrounded by palm trees with Montalegre ridge as a backdrop. I'll bet they have a gym, tennis court, sauna...........
Wondering what time I should roll up for registration at the PWC today? The hotel reception say they don't mind what time I check out!

All this has given me an enormous appetite. After having devoured an large plate of fresh fruit (kiwi, papaya, honeydew and water melon), refreshed with 2 glasses of mango and and orange juice, I have moved on to strong coffee and a plate of scrambled egg, sausage and the nearest thing I have been able to find to bacon in the last 3 weeks! All washed down with strong columbian coffee.
For £37 I'd say this is as near a bargain as you will ever get.  On returning to the website, www.booking.com, this morning no surprise it now shows as fully booked.

Damn, I'll have to go paragliding instead.!

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